Transfer in the afternoon from a Kaziranga lodge to board the ship at Silghat.

Cruise downstream under the seemingly endless new bridge to dock at Tezpur. From here we travel on by road to visit a working tea garden at Dhekiajuli, seeing all the stages of growing and processing tea (factory not in operation between December and mid-March).

After lunch on board, we visit the remains of the the 6th century Da Parbatia temple, with exquisite carved portal, then board cycle rickshaws to take us through the bazaars to Cole Park with its collection of medieval stone carving. Re boarding our ship we cruise down to moor for the night near the isolated Singri Hill.

The day is spent on the river, traversing a lunar landscape of sand islands then closing on the range of hills beyond which lies Guwahati. In the evening we should reach the idyllic isolated village of Ganesh Pahar.

This morning's voyage is particularly pretty, with jungle-covered hills on the south bank. Reaching Guwahati at midday, we moor opposite the city and climb up to the pretty Aswaklanta temple on the hill above before driving out to the beautifully sited temple ruins of Madan Kamdev, their erotic carving an indicator of the strong tantric traditions in the area.

We cross to the main waterfront for a tour of Guwahati, driving up Nilachal Hill to the Kamakhya temple, known for its tantric rites and animal sacrifices. Visit the poignant Commonwealth War Graves, the museum and bazaars before cruising down to the silkweaving village of Sualkuchi. This afternoon drive to Hajo, a place sacred to Hindus, Muslims and Buddhists. Visit a Muslim shrine with extensive hilltop views over the surrounding rural landscape, and the Hindu temple with its frieze of elephants and its sacred tank full of great carp, catfish and turtles.

Walk through Sualkuchi to visit weaving workshops and see the whole process of silk manufacture, from cocoon to spinning to dyeing and finally to handweaving into exquisite saris and dress lengths before transferring to the airport for final departure.